The popular Belgian-themed Chambar is one of many Vancouver restaurants where it’ll be business as usual during the Olympics.

The popular Belgian-themed Chambar is one of many Vancouver restaurants where it’ll be business as usual during the Olympics.

Credit: supplied

ON THE PLATE: Keep calm and carry on

The Olympics are guaranteed to make a confusing mess of the city. There are road closures to worry about, security nets to avoid, and plenty of other disruptions conspiring to trip up our good times. Dozens of restaurants have been booked out by foreign and domestic companies, tourism boards, and media corporations seeking festive headquarters for several nights (and, in some cases, for the entire duration of the Games). This makes it a bit of challenge for locals to know which of their favourite spots haven’t been sold to the highest bidder. With that in mind, I’ve gone through my own list of default dependables, and a couple of off-the-radar gems, to see which ones will be open for our — as opposed to their — business once the torch arrives.

DOWNTOWN

With the long-awaited Corner Suite Bistro De Luxe (850 Thurlow, 604-569-3415, TheCornerSuite.com) finally open after more than six months of red-tape delays, I’ll gladly brave the tourist throng. Happily, and despite advance demand, its owners haven’t accepted any of several buyout offers. “We’re more interested in being accessible to local people”, reports co-owner Andre McGillivray. I was granted a sneak peek, and found a sexy room and an expertly tended bar, as well as a surprisingly affordable menu. If I venture into Yaletown at all during the Games, it’ll only be to return to the sleek and inexpensive Lupo (869 Hamilton, 604-569-2535, LupoRestaurant.ca) for its brilliant pastas, which I haven’t been able to stop thinking about since my first visits a few weeks ago. Though co-owner Michael Mameli tells me a few large groups have been booked, Lupo being a two-level restaurant has allowed it to remain open to the larger public, too. “We’ve avoided full buyouts,” he assures me. “We’ll always make sure it’s available to those who live in the area.” About as close to the Olympic action as can be is the Belgian-inspired Chambar (562 Beatty, 604-879-7119, Chambar.com), located a stone’s throw from GM Place. A projector TV has been installed in the rear dining room to air Olympic highlights for the clientele, while next-door sister restaurant Medina Cafe (556 Beatty St, 604-879-3114, MedinaCafe.com) has added a take-out window to serve beverages and waffles every day from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.

WEST SIDE

Thankfully, the Olympics haven’t fazed gifted chef Angus An at his Thai powerhouse Maenam (1938 West 4th Ave, 604-730-5579, Maenam.ca). “We’re too small a restaurant for big buyouts,” he admits. “We’ve had requests, but we decided it was better for everyone if we kept it business-as-usual.” Ditto next door at the recently opened Refuel (1944 West 4th, 604-288-7905, RefuelRestaurant.com), a casual restaurant specializing in refined, accessibly-priced comfort food. “Refuel’s focus is entirely on locals,” co-owner/sommelier Tom Doughty says, “so we’ll just be doing our regular thing.” At the northern-Italian-themed La Quercia (3689 West 4th, 604-676-1007, LaQuercia.ca), there’s also no sell-out to the visiting hordes. “We’re more interested in serving the public,” says manager Tony Peneff. “We do have a couple buyouts, but, ironically, they have nothing to do with the Olympics — they’re birthdays.” When in the Cambie Village, I’ll be sticking close to Stella’s (3305 Cambie, 604-874-6900, StellasBeer.com) for good beer and pub fare, and hopefully slipping in to Pied-à-Terre (3369 Cambie, 604-873-3131, Pied-A-Terre-Bistro.ca) for the three-course ‘table d’hote’ menu — just $45 including wine.

EAST SIDE

By dint of geography, it seems unlikely that Main Street and Commercial Drive are going to see as great an invasion as the downtown core, which makes them all the more appealing. If you’ve never been before, the tiny, undersung Divino Wine Bar (1590 Commercial, 604-258-0005, DivinoVancouver.com) is well worth a visit for both its Asian-accented Mediterranean food and surprisingly deep wine list. Meanwhile, over at Ping’s Cafe (2702 Main, 604-873-2702, PingsCafe.ca), they’ll continue to purr along, serving the locals filling, irreverent Japanese-fusion fare with exotic beer selections. The neighbourly Grub (4328 Main, 604-876-8671, GrubOnMain.ca), with its inspired daily fresh sheets, is an equally dependable bet. And the always magnetic Cascade Room (2616 Main, 604-709-8650, TheCascade.ca), home to the talents of barman Nick Devine and chef Travis Williams, is also staying clear of buyouts, which is entirely in keeping with the restaurant’s motto: “Keep Calm and Carry On.”

GASTOWN

I’m very grateful that the cool, cocktail-forward joints Pourhouse (162 Water, 604-568-7022, PourhouseVancouver.com) and the Diamond (6 Powell, Di6mond.com) have remained committed to serving their regulars, and that perennial hot spot Boneta (1 West Cordova, 604-684-1844, Boneta.ca) is only closing to the public for a private party on the night of the opening ceremonies. Around the corner at the wine, cheese, and charcuterie bar Salt Tasting Room (45 Blood Alley, 604-633-1912, SaltTastingRoom.com), manager Kurtis Kolt says the downstairs Salt Cellar will be open to meet the anticipated extra demand, and they’ll be padding their already excellent wine list with even more B.C. product to show the world what our terroir is capable of. Meanwhile, over at my favourite place for a pint, the Alibi Room (157 Alexander, 604-623-3383, Alibi.ca), they’ve only taken one special booking. “We aren’t treating it as a big cash grab,” says owner Nigel Sprinthorpe. “We’d like to be seen as a sanctuary for the people who live here.” To that end, he’s rented a storage locker and stockpiled enough beer to keep the Alibi’s 28 taps flowing for the duration. Of the Olympics in general, he’s taking a wait-and-see approach, like many of his colleagues. “We’re all entering the unknown,” he says, laughing. “All we know is that we just don’t know.”

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Saturday 20 March 2010

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